Cairo’s Social Landmark Where Time Has Stood Still

Café Riche Hosted Egypt's Greatest Thinkers, Sweetest Songbirds

A view of the entrance to Cafe Riche in Cairo. (Photo Credit: Twitter)
A view of the entrance to Cafe Riche in Cairo. (Photo Credit: Twitter)

Cairo’s Social Landmark Where Time Has Stood Still

Local artwork lines the walls in the narrow main corridor and the charming table arrangements are made up of the ever-so-common tiny wooden chairs, checked red and white tablecloths, and, as an added bonus, high-quality cloth napkins. Simple, glossy flower vases adorn the centers of the tables, each containing a single, fresh flower, adding a cozy, personal touch.

An adjacent room is right next door and the green fluorescent lighting gives off an odd vibe.

In the heart of Cairo, specifically on Talaat Harb Street, one of the most famous and historical cafes in the Egyptian capital is located.  Since its establishment in 1908, the Café has witnessed more than 100 years of history, during which it played a central role in the political, cultural and artistic life in Egypt.

Café Riche – Creative Commons via Wikimedia Commons.

Café Riche was never just a cafe or restaurant in Cairo – it is a famous landmark in the city center and a frequent destination for writers, authors, artists, painters, opponents, and politicians.

Café Riche was founded in 1908 and given its current name in 1914 by its French owner Henry Recine. He sold it a short time later to Greek businessman and art collector Michael Nicoapolits, who added a theatre with performances by notable artists such as legendary Egyptian singer Umm Kulthum.  

Many cultural and political seminars and salons were held within the walls of Café Riche, near Talaat Harb Square, and were attended by Egypt's most famous intellectuals, from Taha Hussein to Naguib Mahfouz.

Many oriental musical, lyrical and artistic concerts were held on its stage.  Umm Kulthum, of "Kawkab al-Sharq" came from her village in 1923 to appear on the stage.

It's worth noting that the Café's owners kept a newspaper advertisement from May 1923, which stated: "Theatro Café Riche delights the audience on May 31 with Miss Umm Kulthum, an Egyptian nightingale with a melodious voice, come and book your seats now, a special chair 15 piasters, public admission 10 piasters."

 

Café Riche has been a center of intellectual life in Cairo since its founding in 1908. The Cafe recently reopened its doors after closing following the death of owner Magdi Abdel Malak in May. - (Photo Credit: Facebook.com/Cafe Riche.eg).

 

The old Café was extended to Suleiman Pasha Square (now Talaat Harb), and next to it was a music hall where the singing giants of the time performed, led by Saleh Abdel Hai and Zaki Murad.  Next to the Café was a wrestling hall and a backgammon table.

In the past, great writers such as Naguib Mahfouz, Youssef Idris, Amal Donqul, Yahya Al-Taher Abdullah, Salah Jahin, Tharwat Abaza, Najib Sorour, Kamal Al-Malakh, journalists, and artists frequented the Café for a cup of coffee.

The literary sessions of Naguib Mahfouz took place alongside the seminars of Al-Akkad and Tawfiq Al-Hakim.  At its tables, they discussed politics, the economy, and Egyptian society's concerns, so the Café decorated its walls with photos of these celebrities.

Insofar as it was a place where publications were written during the revolution, the Café played a national role in 1919 and this is evidenced by the "printing press" discovered years ago in the Café's basement. The Café was damaged by the Cairo earthquake in 1992, and when the restoration work began, a small vestibule was discovered leading to an old storage room where empty alcohol barrels and a manual printing machine were discovered, indicating that the pamphlets were printed in the Café.

In his book, “The National History of Egypt: From 1914 to 1921,” Abd al-Rahman al-Rafi'i stated, "Café Riche was the place where the middle-class mandarins sat. It was also known as a gathering place for revolutionaries and those who spoke about it or about the country as a whole."

(Photo Credit: Facebook.com/Cafe Riche.eg).

The Café has certain traditions, such as not serving "shisha" to its customers and prohibiting playing cards, and, despite the fact that the coffee is crowded, tranquility is the main feature of the place.

Café Riche is like an album that tells the story of Cairo from the inside. There are images of Egypt's flooded pyramids and ancient Cairo's squares. When you enter the place, you feel a strange comfort and a unique feeling, and you come out of the hustle and bustle of the street to rest your ear on the voice of Mohamed Abdel Wahab chanting via the gramophone.

The café also witnessed many stories of celebrity love and marriage, when Fatima / Rose al-Yusuf appeared in acting roles accompanied by the voice of Muhammad Abdul Quddus. They met, loved, and married, and they gave birth to Ihsan Abdul Quddus, an Arab world literary giant of the novel.

In the 1940s, Café Riche witnessed the formation of the Arab world's first musical syndicate, which hosted poetic evenings and cultural seminars. Taha Hussein, Al-Akkad, Louis Awad, Yahya Haqqi, Suleiman Najib, and Tawfiq Al-Hakim were the most famous pioneers in the 1940s and 1950s, and since the 1960s, the most famous leaders have been Edwar Al-Kharrat, Yahya Al-Taher Abdullah, Najib Sorour, and Jamal Al-Eid.

(Photo Credit: Facebook.com/Cafe Riche.eg).

Café Riche's vibrant political history led to its closure during the reign of Anwar al-Sadat. Although the late president frequented the Café, he ordered its closure after witnessing heated debates and discussions about his rule and the peace treaty with Israel within its walls.

Egypt's recent film “Kira & El Gin,” which premiered in Egyptian cinemas on June 30, also screened scenes in Café  Riche, which played an important role in Egypt's revolution of 1919 during the British occupation period. It was a secret hideout for militants resisting the British occupation at the time, as well as a place for nights out for the English rulers and leaders hosting parties and viewing silent films.

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