In war-torn Sudan, the days are long and the nights are restless

Sudanese novelist Mansour Al-Souaim journals his life in Sudan, where war continues to rage and the future looks bleak

Sudanese novelist Mansour Al-Souaim journals his life in Sudan, where war continues to rage and the future looks bleak.
Wafaa Salah
Sudanese novelist Mansour Al-Souaim journals his life in Sudan, where war continues to rage and the future looks bleak.

In war-torn Sudan, the days are long and the nights are restless

At 6 am, I saw two skinny men working anxiously to set up a medium-sized cardboard table. I was waiting for the milk vendor I had spotted days ago roaming the streets alone, indifferent to the morning explosions, accompanied only by his donkey and a small cart.

I sat down looking at the energetic young men. Once they finished setting up the table, they quickly brought two containers, emptied their contents, and proceeded to arrange their meager merchandise. As the sounds of the fighter jet echoed through the sky, I thought to myself, “These two vendors must be new to the area.”

It was perhaps the 10th or 13th day of fighting. Although days have all become the same, certain events are etched into my memory, especially those that unfolded in the early morning – which were small but noticeable occurances.

A small group of homeless people had just woken up and proceeded to wash their faces using cold water from a cooler, dragging the cardboard they had slept on next to that same cooler with their feet. They slept on the streets, unbothered by the falling missiles, the nighttime gangs, or the fighter jets.

Once their faces were washed, they brought out nylon bags, pouring glue into them, and started inhaling the substance to escape from the surrounding events. For these people, the presence or absence of war means little to them as they battle countless wars every day.

Detachment from war

Another morning, I found one of the two young men sitting alone in front of his makeshift grocery store. The tomatoes, lettuce, potatoes, and green onions were still wet and arranged neatly on the table, while the eggplant was withered and dying.

Later that same afternoon, a missile exploded near our home, scattering shrapnel everywhere. Many insisted that it had hit the roof of one of the neighbouring houses.

The young vegetable vendor told me the story in great detail, starting from the moment the plane took off to when the anti-aircraft missiles were launched. He sees everything.

“Yes, it fell on that house,” he said, pointing to a two-story building not far from where we were sitting. He spoke dispassionately and I found his detachment intriguing. In the distance, I could see people going in and out of the targeted house.

Have people grown accustomed to the situation? I don’t think so. But where is this indifference coming from? Is it fear or surrender?

I sat down with the young man for some time. When no customers came, I asked him, “Why do you stay here amidst the ongoing war instead of returning to your village?”

I knew his village in Al Jazirah, an hour and a half away from the capital Khartoum. Al Jazirah State is safe, and most Khartoum residents have already fled to his village and neighbouring villages.

He simply replied, “I cannot afford to sit idle with no work. I have orphans to take care of and a sick mother to tend to.”

He simply replied, "I cannot afford to sit idle with no work. I have orphans to take care of and a sick mother to tend to."

I said nothing more and stared at the piles of tomatoes, lemons, lettuce, and wilted eggplants, all under the sun. Perhaps he figured out what was going on in my head or maybe he was thinking the same thing himself, as he said, "We don't sell much here. There are several established vendors in this place."

After a brief pause, he continued, "But either today or tomorrow morning, we'll move to the other side of the street, where it's quieter and there are fewer traders."

REUTERS
View of the moon while a strike aircraft prepares for an aerial bombardment as clashes between the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces and the Sudanese army continue, in Khartoum, Sudan, May 1, 2023.

Days stretch on endlessly

As I said, days have all become the same. They stretch on endlessly, disrupted by the nightmares of irregular sleep mixed with the beautiful illusion that things have returned to normal. But nothing has changed; everything repeats itself and remains under constant threat.

The sound of the planes suddenly appears, soon followed by anti-aircraft missiles. We hold our breath, unsure where the missiles, shrapnel, or whatever other type of explosives will strike. We go out early in the morning, on hot days, and cold nights, moving from one place to the other, sipping our coffee, and wondering when, or if, the war will end.

On several occasions, I sit alone at night in the same spot where the struggling vendors sat. I try to make sense of what's happening and what will happen next. I find it difficult to share my thoughts with my friends.

I sit alone at night in the same spot where the struggling vendors sat. I try to make sense of what's happening and what will happen next.

Most believe that military control is the only solution, even if it means the army must destroy Khartoum. Others see ceasefires as useless and only prolonging the war. How could a force that was formed in the "desert" rebel against a state army?

These are the views of most. How can I convince them that when destruction befalls a city, it doesn't matter who is responsible? Whether it is the desert force or the state army, or even the poor citizens caught in the middle, the end result is the same.

How can I convince them that the defeat or annihilation of any of the two armies means thousands of houses in mourning across the rural valleys and villages of Sudan – the very same places from which the two armies draw their power?

I am in favour of having one army and "controlled violence by the government," and against the existence of multiple armies that use violence to threaten the country and steal its resources.

But can any of this be controlled without shedding blood or through dialogue and reconciliation? And is it all for the sake of the controlling state and one army? What is the obstacle?

Accustomed to war

One day, I asked a relative who lived close to the broadcasting building, "Is the fighting intense where you are?" He quickly replied via WhatsApp, "Yes… but we're used to it."

I asked because multiple planes flew over us in the neighbourhood of Karari, while the anti-aircraft missiles were being launched with each plane, frightening everyone in their path.

Read more: As fighting rages, Sudanese ask: Who is the army fighting?

Have they targeted Sudan Radio? Have they destroyed Hona Omdurman and everything this radio station represents to the Sudanese people? Destroying it would be equivalent to erasing Sudan's memory or "old Sudan" and rebuilding a new Sudan from the remnants.

Although accustomed to the sounds of bullets, explosions, and fighter jets, it is impossible to get used to attacks from thieves and gangs armed with guns, weapons, and allegedly Kalashnikovs.

REUTERS
A man walks while smoke rises above buildings after aerial bombardment, during clashes between the paramilitary Rapid Support Forces and the army in Khartoum North, Sudan, May 1, 2023.

Looting and chaos spreads

The gangs have left their bases and are now looting markets. It's uncertain who will strike first: the established criminals who were released from prison during the first days of fighting or the gangs called the "Tissa Tawila" groups, comprising bikers holding cleavers, axes, and other forms of weapons.

Videos have circulated of bank robberies across Khartoum and Omdurman, showing something different. All of the "people" who were there participated in the theft, running with bags of money in their hands. People of all colours, ages, and genders, wearing traditional or Western clothing, so we cannot single out a particular 'type'.

The popular market in Omdurman was attacked, but this incident differed from the spontaneous bank robbery that allowed the weakest to take what they perceived as their share. Instead, gangs appeared, intimidating everyone and attacking the popular market, banks, companies, large stores, and pedestrians.

Everything was attacked or robbed, and the operation was well-planned and organised. Buses, cranes, and light arms were used, and people were killed. They took everything: every banknote, motorcycle, refrigerator, and cart.

Everything was attacked or robbed, and the operation was well-planned and organised. They took everything: every banknote, motorcycle, refrigerator, and cart. People were killed.

The markets were attacked gradually, according to one of my friends. They started with the Bahri market, then proceeded to the industrial city. They rented trucks to move light and heavy goods.

They moved on from Bahri through Omdurman, destroying everything in their path, and made their way to the popular market in Omdurman. It was said that they were planning to take over the Libya market, in what would have been a large-scale operation had it gone through.

We sat in the streets, looking at the trucks leaving the market laden with all sorts of goods. Sensing danger, the traders decided to take a risk and started moving their merchandise away from the markets and storing it in their homes.

What happens once they're done with the markets? No doubt they will start attacking residential areas and unguarded homes. Meanwhile, the police are nowhere to be found.

This is just another average day in war-torn Sudan. We don't even know what day it is, just like we don't know who is winning this 'war'.  

This is just another average day in war-torn Sudan. We don't even know what day it is, just like we don't know who is winning this 'war'. 

War planes hover over our heads, missiles are fired, fires rage, and army generals die and revive a thousand times.

Today, or maybe yesterday, I went outside to meet the milk vendor. I saw the two energetic young men setting up their new cardboard table in a calmer spot on the opposite side of the street.

Shortly after, the morning plane flew overhead. I could hear it but couldn't catch a glimpse of it. A few minutes later, I hear the sound of anti-aircraft missiles.

I sit on the ground and wait.  

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