Damascus has recovered its natural cadence. Within it, the old and the new live side by side, the steadfast and the changing, reassurance shaded by vigilance. Buildings sag and sleep while offices remain alert, animated by large ambitions and weighty files. Hotels, restaurants and luxury cars share the city with the poor, the beggars and the hungry. There are the hopeful and the fearful, the conservative and the rebellious, the secular and the Islamist. Some cling to the past; others fasten themselves to the future.
The city’s buildings look worn, their age seeming almost to belong to another realm. Rectangular blocks with shuttered windows, heavy curtains and faded colours compose a scene that soon settles in the visitor’s eye after the first shock has passed. Structures leaning along the shoulder of Mount Qasioun slowly recover their lights.
Aged silver streets cut through the city’s body. Modern traffic lights stand in their places. Uniformed police officers keep to their rounds. Vehicles bearing a new visual identity move through the streets. Young men stand upright. Yellow cars, as though drawn out of museums, circulate through the capital. The drivers are exhausted. The passengers are exhausted, too.
The city is secure, yet still thirsty for security. It is more orderly than it was in previous months. It has made peace with itself and with others. Its major files have been settled in recent months. Damascus has become a destination for many visitors. It has restored its relations with the outside world, from Riyadh to Ankara, Doha, Abu Dhabi and Amman, and from Moscow to New York, Washington, Paris, London and Beijing.
The United States Army has withdrawn. Damascus now stands at the centre of engagement with the international coalition against the Islamic State. The lines have moved from military presence to security coordination. Russia, too, has dismantled some of its bases and withdrawn many of its mercenaries. The future of its presence on the coast is tied to the future of military supply arrangements between the two armies.