Damascus: reassured, yet wary

Grand ambitions matter, but modest aspirations are indispensable.

Damascus: reassured, yet wary

Damascus has recovered its natural cadence. Within it, the old and the new live side by side, the steadfast and the changing, reassurance shaded by vigilance. Buildings sag and sleep while offices remain alert, animated by large ambitions and weighty files. Hotels, restaurants and luxury cars share the city with the poor, the beggars and the hungry. There are the hopeful and the fearful, the conservative and the rebellious, the secular and the Islamist. Some cling to the past; others fasten themselves to the future.

The city’s buildings look worn, their age seeming almost to belong to another realm. Rectangular blocks with shuttered windows, heavy curtains and faded colours compose a scene that soon settles in the visitor’s eye after the first shock has passed. Structures leaning along the shoulder of Mount Qasioun slowly recover their lights.

Aged silver streets cut through the city’s body. Modern traffic lights stand in their places. Uniformed police officers keep to their rounds. Vehicles bearing a new visual identity move through the streets. Young men stand upright. Yellow cars, as though drawn out of museums, circulate through the capital. The drivers are exhausted. The passengers are exhausted, too.

The city is secure, yet still thirsty for security. It is more orderly than it was in previous months. It has made peace with itself and with others. Its major files have been settled in recent months. Damascus has become a destination for many visitors. It has restored its relations with the outside world, from Riyadh to Ankara, Doha, Abu Dhabi and Amman, and from Moscow to New York, Washington, Paris, London and Beijing.

The United States Army has withdrawn. Damascus now stands at the centre of engagement with the international coalition against the Islamic State. The lines have moved from military presence to security coordination. Russia, too, has dismantled some of its bases and withdrawn many of its mercenaries. The future of its presence on the coast is tied to the future of military supply arrangements between the two armies.

Hotels, restaurants and luxury cars share the city with the poor, the beggars and the hungry

The sharp divisions of a few months ago no longer appear on the surface. The troubling file of the "SDF" remains open. Mazloum Abdi travels along the Hasakah-Damascus road. Sipan Hamo, through the gate of the Ministry of Defence, has rediscovered his relationships, his friends and his childhood in the capital. It is no small matter that one might encounter Abdi or Hamo in Damascus rather than Hasakah. Nor is it a passing detail that the Kurdish language is being inscribed in the "heart of Arabism," slipping through the windows of buildings once stamped with Baathist identity.

Damascus remains both a symbol and the centre of the state. The government has restored its relations abroad and reasserted control over all its borders and cities. Yet the files of Sweida, the arrangements in the south with Israel and the wounds of other regions remain unresolved.

Economic anxieties

The years of the former regime now feel distant. Another anxiety has moved to the fore: the economy. "We used to fear one another. We feared the walls, the security checkpoints, everything. The new rulers are from among us. Freedom cannot be compensated for; it is beyond price," says an elderly man in a Damascene café. He continues: "But our living conditions are extremely difficult, below zero. Prices are high, and the bills exceed what we can bear. I do not pay the bills, not because I do not wish to, but because I cannot. I simply do not have the money, and there are many like me."

Mobile phone bills, electricity costs, rising fuel prices and food prices weigh heavily on the public. One expert observes: "The two most important issues are security and the economy. The security situation has clearly improved. What is equally clear is that people's living conditions have not."

The new authorities inherited a country devastated, besieged, displaced and divided. The year 2024 marked a turning point in Syria. The year 2025 brought an end to isolation, the lifting of sanctions and the consolidation of security. The year 2026 was meant to set development and reconstruction in motion. Numerous memoranda of understanding for major strategic projects were indeed signed in a celebratory atmosphere. Expectations rose, and ambitions widened, yet their effects have not swiftly translated into tangible improvements in people's daily lives.

Syria's economic revival remains an urgent priority. It is the track upon which a smooth transition to the future must run.

Iran war repercussions

The Middle East, as always, is full of surprises. It disrupts priorities and reshapes calculations. The war with Iran stands among the defining conflicts in the region's history. Its repercussions have reached even stable states, and for Syria, they are likely to be more painful. Gulf and European countries, from which Damascus had hoped to secure financial support, will now be preoccupied with their own circumstances and priorities amid rising energy prices and the burdens of maintaining security and averting military threats.

Damascus has managed to avoid the direct shrapnel of the war. It has remained secure within a volatile region and at the intersection of fire. It expressed solidarity with Gulf states against Iranian attacks and opened its ports to supply routes bound for the Gulf. Syria has also succeeded in presenting itself as part of an alternative strategic map to the Strait of Hormuz, proposing networks of gas and oil pipelines and railways linking the Gulf to the Mediterranean, Türkiye and Europe.

These projects are ambitious and important for Syria's medium and long-term future. Yet immediate concerns allow little room for complacency. Among the swift remedies now being discussed in Damascus are reforms to governance, the banking system and administrative performance, to be pursued through a deep structural government reshuffle after the completion of parliamentary formation.

Syria's economic revival remains an urgent priority. It is the track upon which a smooth transition to the future must run, the binding force that may yet hold together disparate elements, challenges and expectations. Grand ambitions matter, but modest aspirations are indispensable.

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