The Arab women raising the bar in travel literature

In recent years, travel writing has witnessed a striking revival, though along a different path, one now charted by Arab women’s voices.

The Arab women raising the bar in travel literature

Arabic literature embraced travel writing at an early stage, and the genre soon became a rich space, geographical knowledge converging with cultural reflection and personal narrative to describe the world. Travellers’ journeys were immortalised in works that became pillars of the literary heritage, among them Ibn Battuta’s A Gift to Those Who Contemplate the Wonders of Cities and the Marvels of Travelling, and Al-Masudi’s The Meadows of Gold, in which place, history, and people were described.

Rifa’a al-Tahtawi’s An Extraction of Gold in Summarising Paris inaugurated a new phase, one grounded in comparison between East and West and in the re-examination of the self through encounters with the other. As transport developed and travel became easier, more people took to the road and wrote about their journeys. The art of travel writing seemed to be losing some of its distinctiveness and, in many cases, slipping into mere recording of fleeting impressions.

In recent years, however, the genre has witnessed a remarkable return to form, in no small part because it has been infused by Arab women’s voices. These have given travel writing a new face, venturing far beyond descriptions of place, offering layered experiences that combine autobiography, cultural reflection, memory, and geography. No longer just movement through space, travel writing has become a journey to the self, to identity, and to one’s relationship with the world.

From this standpoint, Arab female travel writers are excelling. Their works interrogate experience and understand oneself in the face of the other. They do not approach place as a subject but as a mirror to reflect on questions of identity, belonging, and cultural differences. Despite the variety of their contexts, these works are united by the transformation of travel writing from description to ‘testing consciousness’. The place is now less important than the trace it leaves. Here, Al Majalla looks at some of the women leading the charge.


Hanan Suleiman

In her book A Journey into the Memory of War: Bosnia and Herzegovina, published by Dar Kotobia in early 2026 and commended by the Ibn Battuta Prize for Travel Literature in 2024, Egyptian writer Hanan Suleiman offers a distinctive literary experience rooted in a deeply personal impulse tied to childhood memory, when she followed news of the Bosnian war, especially the Srebrenica massacre.

Suleiman travels to Sarajevo, a place heavy with memory, and seeks to reconstruct that memory in the light of what she sees and comes to understand. She describes the city as the “Jerusalem of Europe”, where Muslims, Orthodox Serbs, and Catholic Croats meet in a dense, intricate civilisational interweaving, though this coexistence conceals beneath it a history burdened by conflict and upheaval.

The book is divided into more than 30 short chapters. In each, the writer offers a rich body of important information and finely textured reflections on the region, its places, and its cities. Readers visit museums and historic landmarks, learning how Bosnians documented the war through every means available.

Some of it impacts with a startling force, such as the secret Sarajevo Tunnel, built by the Bosnian army during the siege in 1993, through which nearly 100,000 tonnes of food were smuggled. The War Childhood Museum, Mount Igman, and other sites are witnesses to a collective memory.

Her experience is significant because her journey is an act of recovery, not discovery. She does not go to Bosnia to see it for the first time, but to confront an older image of it—one long formed in her mind—and to dismantle and reassemble it. In this way, the ethical dimension of writing is visible, as documentation ceases to be an end in itself and becomes a responsibility, especially when the subject is the memory of a war whose wounds have not yet healed.

The writer also lends her book a visual and technical dimension through photographs and QR codes, allowing the reader to move from text to lived reality. This renders the experience more immediate and interactive.

Sanaa Shalaan

In her book The Road to Krishna, published by the Arab Institute for Studies and Publishing in 2023 and winner of the Ibn Battuta Prize for Contemporary Travel Writing in 2022, Jordanian writer Sanaa Shalaan departs from the traditional mode of travel writing in her somewhat analytical and critical prose.

REUTERS / Adnan Abidi‬
Indian security force personnel talk to the local people at the‬ site of a suspected militant attack on tourists in Baisaran near Pahalgam in south Kashmir's‬ ‭Anantnag district on 24 April 2025.

The journey unfolds in India in the company of her mother, but the text soon changes course in Kashmir, where she portrays a paradise set ablaze by political conflict. Shalaan traces the sharp contradictions of Indian society, where grandeur sits alongside poverty. Homelessness and misery in major cities reveal a deep gulf between the image promoted by Indian cinema and Indians’ daily reality.

She addresses religious tensions, particularly the suffering endured by Muslims, showing how the media inflames such conflicts, turning individual disputes into collective confrontations. In this context, she expresses concern over the rise of hate speech and its corrosive effect on the social fabric. Against this sombre backdrop, the writer does not overlook the spiritual dimension, considering Sufism, shrines, and the rituals of veneration surrounding religious figures, hence the ‘Krishna’ of the title: a symbol of love and spirituality in Hindu culture.

What distinguishes this experience is its courage in facing reality. The writer’s search is directed towards truth, even when truth arrives in shocking form. In this way, the journey becomes an instrument of revelation, restoring travel writing to its cognitive vocation as a means of understanding the world rather than merely adorning it.

Arab female travel writers are excelling. Their works interrogate experience and understand oneself in the face of the other.

Noha Ouda

An architect by profession, the Egyptian writer Noha Ouda offers a distinctive contribution to travel writing in an extended project pursued since 2022 through several publications, the most recent of which is The Wall of Memories, published by Dar Kotobia in 2025. In her first book, Companions of the Road, she begins from Alexandria both as a place and as an early reservoir of memory.

She revisits the beginnings of her university journey before moving on to other cities, including Venice, St Mark's Square, Byzantine architecture, and the history of St Mark's Basilica, in prose that blends personal narrative with historical knowledge. She later visits Sri Lanka, moving through its historic spaces, including Kandy and Hunas Falls, combining observation and documentation, supported by photographs.

In Letters of the Sea, the writing becomes more intimate as the journey becomes a discourse addressed to her husband. She writes about places as shared experiences, linking the present to their common memory. Travel is no longer a simple passage from one place to another, but a means of renewing a relationship with place through memory and feeling.

Yuichi YAMAZAKI / AFP
People walk past shops in the Asakusa area as the 634 m (2,080 ft) Tokyo Skytree (back C) is pictured in the distance in the Japanese capital, on 21 February 2025.

In The Wall of Memories, her work matures as she travels to Japan with her children, combining personal narrative with reflections on cultural and architectural themes. She records the details of Japanese life, from order and cleanliness to the balance between nature and technology, while also pausing at historical landmarks—such as the Ryounkaku Tower—and returning to their architectural and historical context.

This experience reveals an important shift in travel writing, where the journey is no longer a solitary act, but an ongoing project that accumulates over time and takes shape as a continuous memory. The presence of children also gives it an educational dimension, in which travel shapes awareness.

Aisha Belhaj

In her book On the Wing of a Bicycle: From Tangier to Paris (Arab Institute for Studies and Publishing, 2023), which won the Ibn Battuta Prize for Contemporary Travel Writing, Moroccan poet and journalist Aisha Belhaj links place to feeling, beginning with her relationship to Paris, which does not appear in her text as a tourist destination, but as symbolic freedom, particularly for women.

She implicitly compares it to living in Morocco and describes the sense of release granted by the French capital, where she can walk through the streets as a "passing human" neither pursued by glances nor constrained by judgement.

This feeling of liberation does not emerge in the text as a slogan, but reveals itself in small details: sitting in cafés, wandering alone, observing people, and entering the rhythm of the city without fear. Her journey therefore becomes an existential experience through which she tests her relationship with her body, with public space, and with other people from other cultures.

LIONEL BONAVENTURE / AFP
A woman stands with a bicycle as the sun rises along the banks of the Seine river, on 18 October 2016 in Paris.

Belhaj does not confine herself to this personal dimension, but opens instead onto the city's cultural memory, linking her own experience to the presence of Paris in world and Arab literature, invoking the names of writers and poets who passed through it or wrote about it, from Rifa'a al-Tahtawi to Adonis, as well as women writers such as Simone de Beauvoir and Marguerite Duras. Artistic and cultural landmarks such as the Louvre Museum and Galerie Vivienne are treated as living spaces. Belhaj reads them with the eye of a poet seeking beauty in detail.

The author engages with the question of women's writing, as she connects her own experience with those of Arab and Western female writers who have sought to express themselves freely, among them Fatima Mernissi and Nawal El Saadawi. In this way, her journey looks at the place of women in the world, making Paris far more than a city; it is an emotional and cultural experience in which freedom intersects with memory, and beauty with writing, until the journey becomes an act of redefining the self.

Arab female travel writers don't approach place as a subject but as a mirror to reflect on questions of identity, belonging, and cultural differences.

Mai Magdy

In her book Addis: An Egyptian Diary in Ethiopia (Dar Ghaya, 2025), Egyptian writer Mai Magdy offers an experience of prolonged immersion after a year in Addis Ababa as part of a volunteer mission. Magdy's diary combines details of daily life with questions of identity and belonging.

The journey begins with a sense of estrangement, loneliness, and difficulty adapting, especially during the month of Ramadan, before she gradually rebuilds her relationship with place through friendships and everyday encounters. If Hanan Suleiman's experience rests on recovering a distant memory, then Mai Magdy's belongs to the immediacy of the present, where writing takes shape through daily contact rather than retrospective reflection. This lends her text a vivid quality, unfolding moment by moment.

This experience also reveals an important dimension of contemporary travel writing: the dismantling of stereotypes between peoples. The journey becomes a space for revisiting inherited assumptions. The writer raises an important question about how Ethiopians view Egyptians amid political tensions, only to show that human relationships often exceed such tensions. The journey later extends to Tanzania and Zanzibar, where she traces forms of cultural intermingling and offers critical observations on tourism and exploitation.

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