'The Substance' lays bare the dangers of obsession with youth and beauty

Coralie Fargeat’s stark commentary on Hollywood and wider society won in Cannes. It is a unique film blending grace, intelligence and horror, starring Demi Moore in one of her finest roles.

'The Substance' film poster
MUBI
'The Substance' film poster

'The Substance' lays bare the dangers of obsession with youth and beauty

Coralie Fargeat’s film The Substance is a deafening cry against the objectification of the human body in our modern-day culture. The plot's title refers to the plot's mechanism for exploring its theme: a magical means of restoring lost youth that allows users to create idealised versions of themselves. As the film develops, we discover that the required injections of the substance must go into the head.

There is a cultural metaphor here. It is a comment on a society in which endless images and perceptions of beauty are pumped into people’s minds about everything—from happiness to health, ideas of attractiveness, sex appeal, love, acceptance and youthfulness.

This seems to be the true focus of The Substance, which nabbed the Best Screenplay Award at the latest Cannes Film Festival. Unlike David Cronenberg's The Fly—in which the grotesque effects of gluttony drive the transformation of organic matter—The Substance never reveals the true purpose behind the project. The film is not concerned with the origins of this discovery. It portrays a secret society where its members—those subject to the experiment—are identified only by numbers.

What matters to the narrative is what happens next. It poses a simple "what if?" question. Without addressing the plausibility of the invention itself, the film is rooted in the illusion of belief.

The premise is this: what if you could split into two people, your present self and your younger self? How would you live together? Could you function as one person, resisting temptation and balancing the whims of both identities? Or would excessive and blind self-interest lead to your own undoing?

Philosophy and metaphor

The Substance gradually unpeels its myriad layers of meaning. The word "substance" shifts from its literal association with "matter" to its deeper, philosophical synonym: "essence." The film questions the essence of human existence and—more specifically—the essence of feminism in the modern world.

In one of her best roles, Demi Moore plays Elisabeth Sparkle, a washed-up star who has become a shadow of her former self. Her star on Hollywood's Walk of Fame is cracked, faded, and covered in dirt, mirroring her own decline. Sparkle keeps a large portrait in her living room that reminds her of the vibrant girl she once was.

The irony, however, is that Demi Moore does not appear old in a way that invites pity or regret. She still embodies beauty and grace. It is clear that Fargeat intentionally avoids portraying ageing as something ugly or shameful.

Sparkle’s drive to experience 'the substance' of the film’s title does not come from a fear of ageing or losing her physical appeal but rather from the realisation that she has become a consumable commodity and must appeal to the workings of the marketplace.

It's evident that Sparkle doesn’t need to work; she seems wealthy—at least based on the success of her past career. Her only motivation, then, for restoring her youth is her deep identification with her public persona. Her fame, image, and star power have become integral to her sense of self.

When the producer of her home exercise show, played by Dennis Quaid, decides it’s time to replace her with a younger woman to boost ratings, Sparkle faces an existential crisis. She finds herself unable to exist outside the identity that stardom and the media have shaped for her over the years.

This feeling of being lost—of having no meaning beyond her public image—is exacerbated by the realisation that Sparkle is entirely alone, without family or friends. Her world is limited to those who maintain her appearance and those who care for her skin and wardrobe. She is, in a sense, a product—an object on the beauty market.

Viewers learn that 'the substance' must be injected into the head, in a metaphor for society, where endless perceptions of beauty are pumped into people's minds

In this world of the body and beauty industry, Sparkle has a limited shelf life. In one of the film's more humourous scenes, the producer bluntly tells Sparkle that her time has passed as he disgustingly peels shrimp and squirts sauce on his face. The image of the discarded shrimp shells symbolises Sparkle, now reduced to a disposable carapace. Food imagery runs throughout the film, underscoring the culture of idealised beauty, which is inherently opposed to food as a source of nourishment.

When Sparkle decides to destroy the youthful body of her young consort, Sue, she feeds her excessive amounts of food as if trying to strip that body of its primary asset: grace and beauty. This behaviour echoes that seen in today's fashion world, where models often adhere to strict diets to maintain their slim figures.

The experiment's rules using 'the substance' dictate that Sparkle must have a partner in the process. It is her young consort, Sue, who, at the beginning of the film, literally emerges from Sparkle's back after she injects herself.

They must alternate, living one week at a time—one body sleeps while the other is active, each taking turns. The instructions are clear: Sparkle and Sue are not to disrupt this arrangement. But as Sue rises to fame and stardom, she wants more than her allotted week in the limelight. This greed leads to physical changes—or rather, deformities—in Sparkle's body. The once-rosy vitality of Sparkle's form quickly deteriorates. Her body begins to wither—a symbolic fountain of youth draining away. As she misuses 'the substance', Sparkle transforms into a grotesquely aged version of herself with visible deformities.

Eventually, Sparkle ends the experiment, resigning herself to the consequences and accepting her deformed body. Yet, she changes her mind, realising that she is sacrificing the essence of what she has fought to preserve by giving up the dream of eternal youth.

One of the film's most disturbing scenes occurs when Sue wakes up from her nap and discovers that Sparkle has tried to rid herself of her. In a brutal act of violence, Sue attacks Sparkle, obliterating what is left of her body. This assault represents Sparkle's self-destruction—since the two women are, in essence, one and the same.

Sue, in her youthful rage, crushes Sparkle's face beneath her feet. This is not merely a physical attack but a symbolic destruction of Sparkle's vision of herself and the future she once imagined. Sue's violent act embodies Sparkle's desperate attempt to halt the inevitable march of time—to freeze her present moment of glory, beauty, and youth.

The film's trajectory leads to a chilling climax, where Sparkle/Sue becomes an unrecognisable, monstrous figure. In a disturbing sequence at a New Year's Eve party, the transformed Sparkle/Sue spews blood over the horrified crowd. This grotesque moment is the logical culmination of everything that has come before—a metaphorical revenge on the very culture that facilitated this transformation.

It's as though the director is finally taking revenge on a society obsessed with media, fame, consumption, and the commodification of the body. The scene evokes memories of the infamous bloodbath in Carrie and the flowing river of blood in Glass—both of which similarly critique the destructive forces of societal pressures and expectations.

A fairy tale take

In the Grimm Brothers' Snow White, the queen asks her magic mirror every day, "Who is the most beautiful in the kingdom?" The mirror responds, "You are the most beautiful of them all," until one day, when Snow White—the queen's stepdaughter—grows up and surpasses her beauty. At that point, the mirror answers, "Snow White is the most beautiful." The Substance seems to have taken inspiration from this famous fairytale, inserting its own dramatic additions. In both stories, the central conflict revolves around the dilemma of ageing versus youth, with the most crucial element being the image itself.

In The Substance, the plain-speaking mirror is replaced by the eyes of others—the consumers, the public, and the makers of stardom. When these eyes decide that Sparkle is no longer the most beautiful, but rather her consort Sue—and by extension, any other young woman—Sparkle's world collapses.

Sue, played by Margaret Qualley, becomes the modern-day Snow White, coming to topple Queen Elizabeth from her throne of beauty and fame.

MUBI
Demi Moore in a film still from 'The Substance'

Perhaps Fargeat, who wrote and directed the film, deliberately plays on this age-old theme by casting two stars from different generations. The decision to cast Demi Moore feels intentional—as the film seemingly echoes her own experience in Hollywood, a place driven and consumed by an insatiable demand for youthful, marketable beauty.

Moore's role can be seen as a reflection of the very system that Hollywood imposes on its stars—a system based on the relentless pursuit of image and the principle of supply and demand in the consumer-driven world of stardom.

Despite the grotesque physical horror the film portrays— especially in its more disturbing scene—The Substance succeeds in offering a unique cinematic experience. It avoids descending into the vulgarity of popular discourse, delivering its implicit ideas with grace and intelligence.

The film maintains the pleasure of cinematic spectacle while simultaneously tearing down stereotypes about fame, body image, and youth. It encourages the viewer to reflect on the absurdity of the consumer machine that slowly devours one's life, forcing individuals to degrade themselves or desperately chase an unattainable image of perfection.

font change

Related Articles