Looting Sudan: From an ancient queen’s jewels to present day

Since Sudan’s civil war began in April 2023, the world has focused on the fighting, humanitarian impact, and ceasefire efforts, yet all the while, Sudan’s cultural heritage was being looted. Again.

Relic with queen Amanishakheto and her name in Meroitic hieroglyphs, 1st century BC, sandstone, from Pyramid 6, Meroe, Sudan in the Berlin Ägyptisches Museum.
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Relic with queen Amanishakheto and her name in Meroitic hieroglyphs, 1st century BC, sandstone, from Pyramid 6, Meroe, Sudan in the Berlin Ägyptisches Museum.

Looting Sudan: From an ancient queen’s jewels to present day

Nations rarely see the theft of their national treasures from space, but for the Sudanese people, satellite imagery in recent months provides precisely that. Since the onset of civil war in Sudan on 15 April 2023, the looting of artefacts from the National Museum of Sudan has been visible from above, the images showing trucks transporting stolen items to the Republic of South Sudan.

The looters did not limit their heist. They also targeted the Museum of the Khalifa’s House in Omdurman, which contains rare items from the Mahdist State at the end of the 19th century, and the Nyala Museum in South Darfur, which holds similarly valuable cultural treasures.

Unique material heritage

The National Museum of Sudan is home to some of the rarest archaeological collections, including granite statues of great Kushite kings such as Taharqa, as well as gold, bronze, iron, wood, and leather items, plus murals, weapons, sculptures, and various decorative objects.

These represent different eras of Sudanese civilisation, from prehistoric times, through to the kingdoms of Kerma, Napata, and Kush, and to the Christian periods of the kingdoms of Makuria, Alodia, and Soba.

In particular, the successive kingdoms of Kerma, Napata, and Kush (which became one of the ancient world’s superpowers) have left behind an invaluable material heritage, with priceless artefacts serving as enduring testaments to the grandeur of the Sudanese people’s ancestors.

Yet tragically, throughout its long history, Sudan has suffered from the plundering of its material history. The evidence is not hidden but on show. Adorning the entrance to the British Museum in London today are six ram statues from the illustrious Kingdom of Kush. Elsewhere in the same building are meticulous carvings from the pyramids of Meroe.

Moreover, the practice continues. Exquisite gold jewellery was taken by non-archaeological expeditions in the Wadi Allaqi (Valley of Gold) in northern Sudan just a few years ago. These reported thefts represent just a fraction of the whole, and are but the latest in a dark history of theft from a nation.

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Jewellery belonging to Queen Amanischahete

Giuseppe Ferlini

In the first half of the 19th century, during the Turkish-Egyptian occupation of Sudan, the country suffered a hugely significant cultural heritage theft at the hands of Giuseppe Ferlini, an Italian adventurer and doctor who arrived in Sudan in 1830.

Born in Bologna in 1797, Ferlini had worked in Greece and Egypt before coming to Sudan as a military doctor with the occupying army. In Sudan, he visited key archaeological sites in Meroë, Musawwarat es-Sufra, Naqa, and Wad Ban Naqa.

Ferlini initially worked in Sennar, then Kordofan, and finally moved to Khartoum, ending his military service in 1834. He applied to Hurshid Pasha (the governor-general of Sudan) for permission to conduct archaeological excavations, saying he wanted to contribute to the study of Sudan’s ancient history.

After getting permission, Ferlini headed north and began his first excavation at the royal palace in Wad Ban Naqa. He then travelled east through Wadi Awatib to Naqa, where he conducted more digs before continuing to Musawwarat es-Sufra.

Initially, Ferlini's attempts to uncover treasure failed, unlike those of other European adventurers in the Nile Valley, who grew rich by selling looted artefacts to museums in countries like Italy, France, and Britain.

Eventually, Ferlini reached Meroë, specifically the royal city and royal tombs (pyramids) of the Kingdom of Kush, about 200km north of Khartoum and 40km north of Shendi, near Kabushiya, in what is now known as the al-Bajrawiya region.

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The pyramids of Meroe in the Sahara of Sudan

Pyramids of Meroë

His trial excavations in the ruins of Meroë's royal city and some smaller pyramids produced no results. Determined to make one final attempt, he chose one of the larger pyramids—the most beautiful and best-preserved.

This was Great Pyramid N6 of Queen Amanishakheto, one of Sudan's most renowned rulers. Around 30m high and built from sandstone, this 64-step pyramid remains one of the most architecturally impressive.

Ferlini hired four local workers who, under his instruction, began dismantling the great structure from its summit while he and an Albanian companion, Antoni Stefani, sat in the shade of a nearby pyramid. Translated from its original Italian, Ferlini's account reveals his selfishness, racism, and barbaric methods.

He recalls workers revealing an opening described as "a circular arrangement of large stone blocks, which initially allowed us a dim view of the chamber and its contents".

Ferlini's diary

In his account, he wrote: "We ordered the workers to remove the massive blocks parallel to the outer steps. The chamber was approximately 6-7 sq. ft with a height of 5 ft. The first thing we saw appeared to be a large object covered in white linen, which disintegrated at the slightest touch.

"Beneath it, we found a wooden bed in the shape of a coffin, supported by four polished, rounded legs, with carved wooden pieces on either side. Under this bed lay a bronze vase containing objects wrapped in white linen. Scattered around the floor of the chamber, we found gleaming coloured glass pieces and gemstones arranged in chains.

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Jewellery belonging to Queen Amanischahete

"There were also amulets, statues, a metal box, small round cabinets, a saw, a mallet, a hammer with a wooden handle, and many other items. I collected all these objects and packed them in a leather bag, hiding the gold from the Arabs.

"When night fell, and the Africans returned to their huts, we brought the items back to our tent. That night, after all the servants and slaves had fallen into a deep sleep, my companion and I sat down and took out the valuable items from the leather bag to inspect them.

"I was filled with immense joy. I was thoroughly impressed by the golden jewellery, and upon realising the quantity, I knew it exceeded all similar finds in European museums. The carved and engraved stones not only matched the works of the Greeks but surpassed them."

Ferlini continued dismantling Queen Amanishakheto's pyramid, discovering palm fibre rope and a wooden hammer among the stone fragments, likely forgotten by the builders. After 15 days, he uncovered a small hiding place midway through the pyramid containing two bronze vases.

After a further 20 days, he had brought the pyramid down to the level of the votive chamber, making no further discoveries. In all, he destroyed around 40 pyramids in his hunt for treasure, sometimes even using explosives.

The priceless artefacts serve as enduring testaments to the grandeur of the Sudanese people's ancestors

He later published a booklet detailing his findings and a catalogue detailing the treasure in Italian in Bologna in 1837. A French translation followed in Rome in 1838. Upon reading it, King Ludwig I of Bavaria bought 90 artefacts in 1840, adding them to the Royal Museum in Munich (now the State Museum of Egyptian Art).

Karl Richard Lepsius

In 1842, German archaeologist Karl Richard Lepsius was preparing for an expedition to the Nile Valley commissioned by the Prussian government when he came across the story of Queen Amanishakheto's treasure. He also learned that Ferlini's agent in London held what remained of the treasure.

Lepsius proposed that these artefacts be acquired for the Berlin Museum, a suggestion supported by the Prussian ambassador in Britain, but it was initially ignored by the Prussian government. Lepsius was convinced of the significance of these jewels and their authenticity, despite widespread scepticism at the time.

It was only after Lepsius visited Meroë in 1844 and conducted his study of the pyramids  that archaeologists finally dispelled their uncertainties. His diary recalls him finding that "several pyramids had been completely destroyed, while others were partially damaged, with none retaining their intact tops".

Lepsius's worker had previously worked with Ferlini and showed the German where the treasure had been discovered in one of the dismantled pyramids. He noted that "Ferlini's destructive activities were still vividly remembered".

Yet Ferlini was not the only interested party. "Osman Bey, whose soldiers were stationed nearby, sought to claim a treasure for himself," wrote Lepsius. "In their frantic search, his men destroyed many of the pyramids."

The treasure Ferlini discovered now holds immense value in the history of Meroitic art, as it belonged to the greatest queen of Meroë

German archaeologist Karl Richard Lepsius, writing in 1844

Convinced of authenticity

Lepsius recalled that Ferlini's find "was still talked about with amazement… Even in Khartoum, people spoke of Ferlini and the treasure. Many Europeans and foreigners, including the governor-general of Sudan, Ahmed Pasha Abu Widan, were obsessed with finding treasures in the pyramids of Meroë".

Lepsius said Ferlini's discovery "was purely a matter of chance, as he found the gold jewellery in an unexpected location, unlike the Egyptian believed custom of burying treasures with the dead in burial chambers". But Osman Bey still wanted his share.

"He offered me his soldiers to oversee an operation to demolish the pyramids in search of gold," wrote Lepsius. "Naturally, I refused and successfully persuaded him to halt the destruction. As a result, the remaining pyramids were spared from further damage, and the soldiers withdrew."

After a thorough study, Lepsius grew convinced of the treasure's historical importance. Writing to the Prussian government on 22 January 1844, he said: "The pyramid inscriptions indicate that at the time of their construction, the people lacked a true understanding of hieroglyphics.

"Their repeated use was purely decorative and devoid of meaning. Even the names of kings were often incomplete. This prevented me from identifying the pyramids of the three kings who built the main temples in Naga, Wad Ban Naqa, and Wadi Tamid.

"Nevertheless, these kings belonged to a prominent era in the Kingdom of Meroë. I am now confident that the pyramid with the Roman-style vaulted votive chamber—where Ferlini found the treasure hidden among the stones—belonged to a powerful, warlike queen (later proven incorrect), depicted in Naga wearing her precious jewellery and sharp nails, each an inch long.

"The treasure Ferlini discovered now holds immense value in the history of Meroitic art, as it belonged to the greatest queen of Meroë, who built all the temples in the region that still stand today. The acquisition of this treasure for our museum would be a significant achievement."

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Sudan National Museum in Khartoum

His appeal finally bore fruit, and by the end of 1844, the remaining treasure was bought for the Royal Berlin Museum. In 1913, four gold seals were purchased from Ferlini's heirs.

The Egyptian Museum in Turin, Italy, also holds replicas of some of the jewellery and a model of Queen Amanishakheto's pyramid made by Ferlini himself, along with other pieces of jewellery that may not have been part of the original treasure.

In 1929, some pieces were exchanged between the Berlin and Munich museums, allowing each collection to gain a more comprehensive representation. During World War II, most of the treasure was safely distributed to other, safer locations.

Fortunately, most items were preserved, but one box did go missing. A gold bracelet from this box resurfaced in the European antiquities market in 1965, prompting the Berlin Museum to repurchase it, but Ferlini's treasure is still missing four gold bracelets, a gold shield ring, four gold seal rings, three gold jackal statues, a carnelian bead, and several small amulets and charms.

These ornaments were likely either used for ritual purposes or intended for funerary rites, as some of them show no signs of ever having been worn. These jewels are not depicted in the inscriptions showing Queen Amanishakheto at the entrance of Great Pyramid N6, which only adds to the treasure's monumental significance.

Rightful return

Ferlini has gone down in history as a villainous "pyramid plunderer", but his actions were part of the larger, systematic destruction and looting of Sudan's rich history and archaeological wealth. To this day, many ancient Sudanese relics are held in Europe. The loss is incalculable.

Sudan now sits alongside other plundered nations, such as those in Latin America, which have faced cultural losses from the great Inca civilisation in Peru or the Maya in Mexico, among the oldest and most revered of civilisations.

After Sudan's civil war ends, the country will need to rebuild. As any builder knows, construction requires firm foundations. For countries, this firm foundation includes their cultural heritage. These plundered artefacts held privately and in museums, are the rightful inheritance of the Sudanese people. Returning them will help the country return to health and regain a sense of its identity.

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