Raising the keffiyeh: How Palestinians defy efforts to eradicate their identity

Symbolism of the keffiyeh

Palestinians have turned everyday cultural heritage, like the keffiyeh, into widespread icons of solidarity.

Unlike traditional heritage passed down from one generation to the next, confined to one community, the keffiyeh has transcended borders, leaping from one population to another in an enduring cultural exchange.

In a world cluttered with trends, the keffiyeh is a testament to a timeless narrative, capturing the essence of a culture that refuses to be silenced. It has thus far been immune to commercialisation, holding onto its true meaning instead.

Often worn around the neck, or even around the head, the keffiyeh – though it did not originate in Palestine – has become a physical embodiment of one's connectedness to the cause.

It's a badge of self-expression, self-determination, and self-defence. With the figurative soil of the Palestinian land woven deep into its fabric, the keffiyeh has become a symbol of Palestine itself, and Palestine has become a symbol of togetherness, resistance and sacrifice, marked by decades of suffering.

Message of the land

After the keffiyeh, embroidery is a close second, from the intricate floral motifs of the traditional Zulfa dress celebrating the arrival of spring, to striped robes in hues of olive green, crimson red, or a spectrum of oranges ranging from radiant yellows to fiery reds.

The fabric tells a story, each thread carrying tales of an agricultural identity and fertile land. Embroidered robes are a living tapestry celebrating unique Palestinian art, women, lifestyle, and culture.

Like keffiyehs, Palestinian embroidered garments have become a global symbol. Modern variations occasionally pop up, mostly apparent in the choice of fabric, but the embroidery, layers, and embellishments still carry the original essence of the region.

What was once ordinary attire in Palestine has metamorphosed into patterns of Palestinian existence that mirror the beauty and richness of life. In the face of oppression, war, and displacement, Palestinians have immortalised memory on fabric, its materiality fading in the depth of expression it carries.

While the traditional clothing of some societies is celebrated during specific festivals and historical milestones, Palestinian traditional attire constantly flourishes.

The essence it embodies is alive, traceable, and comprehensible through its connection to the land, the people, and beauty all at once. It's as if each garment is a daily act of defiance that ceaselessly renews its presence.

In the face of this, the Israeli occupation rushes to manufacture parallel imagery to strip away the allure of Palestinian icons. Stores marketing keffiyehs in global cities are sometimes adorned with Jewish symbols, and efforts persist to propagate fashion resembling Palestine's.

However, Israeli propaganda consistently fails to contain the depth of symbolism and sentiment crafted by Palestinians.

Music and oral heritage

With the collapse of tangible Palestinian heritage and urban structures under the blows of occupation, Palestinians have found alternative ways to preserve their heritage in the form of wearable, inheritable, and transferable items constantly passed from one body to another.

There are also diverse art projects that aim to protect Palestine's cultural history.

Dalal Abu Amneh, who was detained in the early days of the current war on Gaza for a social media comment, spent a decade curating one such project.

She researched and gathered oral and musical history from villages; these folk songs represent a pure Palestinian spirit, with total disregard for commercial relevance.

Before her, artist Amal Murkus also made efforts to preserve Palestinian music. She released albums celebrating traditional songs, to ensure their echoes continue to resonate among today's generation.

French writer-philosopher Regis Debray classified the evolution of vision, imagery and cultural transmission systems throughout history into three stages: the logosphere (rhetoric and oral transmission), the graphosphere (written transmission), and the videosphere (audiovisual communication).

Through projects like Abu Amneh's and Murkus', the evolution of the Palestinian cultural heritage spans all three stages.

Cultural transmission

The journey of any camera through Palestinian villages captures joyous wedding celebrations, melancholic funeral processions, and busy harvest seasons, showcasing the magnitude of emotional connection to the land, highlighting linguistic nuances and documenting different regional expressions. Camera lenses also capture the stone and terrain of ancient village remains.

Today, anyone can experience the beauty and uniqueness of Palestinian heritage on theatre stages, television, or even YouTube.

This poses a challenge to cultural eradication efforts, though such suppression campaigns continue to exist. Some social media users see their accounts suspended or banned for as little as sharing a video celebrating the Palestinian identity.

Arab icons

Across Lebanon, Syria, and many Arab states, a vibrant presence of Palestinian symbolism exists. Most Lebanese and Syrian libraries dedicate a space for Palestinian literature. Pictures of Palestinian poets and artists, such as Mahmoud Darwish and Naji Al-Ali, adorn the walls of many Levantine and Egyptian homes.

Through the streets of these countries, murals proudly showcase the revered Al-Aqsa Mosque or slogans steeped in Palestinian history.

Many of these images and words have taken on a profound and universal meaning, rooted in humanity and transcending politics.

Palestinian music, dance, and dabke have also found their place among the public's hearts.

The Palestinian collective memory of villages, cities and art exists within the realm of freedom. While Palestinian heritage faces tight restrictions today, it grows ever more robustly, manifesting in every space that attempts to squash it – emboldened by such futile efforts.